The 7 Best Climbing Nuts for Rock Climbing in 2025

Introduction to Climbing Nuts

Climbing nuts, also known as stoppers or wires, are essential pieces of passive protection used in traditional rock climbing. Unlike active protection (such as spring-loaded camming devices), nuts work by wedging into constrictions in the rock. When placed correctly, these simple yet ingenious devices can hold thousands of pounds of force, potentially saving your life in the event of a fall.

The term "the 7 best climbing nuts" has become a common search for climbers looking to build or upgrade their rack. And for good reason—with so many options available today, finding the right set can be overwhelming. Different designs excel in various crack types, from parallel-sided fissures to flaring cracks and pin scars.

When I first started climbing, I made the mistake of thinking all nuts were created equal. After several hair-raising experiences with poorly placed protection, I quickly learned that having the right tool for the specific crack type can make all the difference. Today's climber has the advantage of specialized designs that have evolved through decades of testing and innovation.

In this guide to the 7 best climbing nuts, we'll explore different nut designs, including:

• Offset nuts - Featuring asymmetrical designs ideal for flaring cracks and pin scars
• Curved nuts - With curved faces that create three-point contact for more stable placements
• Micro nuts - Smaller options for thin cracks and seams, often made of softer brass
• Standard tapered nuts - The classic design that works well in more parallel-sided cracks

Let's dive into the 7 best climbing nuts that will keep you protected on the wall in 2025 and beyond.

How We Tested These Climbing Nuts

Finding the 7 best climbing nuts wasn't just a matter of reading specifications—it required extensive field testing across diverse climbing environments. My testing methodology involved placing each set of nuts in various rock types across multiple climbing areas, including:

• Yosemite Valley - Testing in smooth granite with classic pin scars
• Joshua Tree - Evaluating performance in coarse-grained granite
• Eldorado Canyon - Assessing placements in sandstone with irregular features
• Red Rock Canyon - Examining behavior in sandstone with varying textures
• Squamish - Testing in compact granite with smooth, water-polished features

For each climbing nut, I evaluated performance across six key metrics:

1. Flared cracks and pin scars performance (25%) - How well does the nut hold in irregular or flaring placements?
2. Parallel crack performance (15%) - How securely does it fit in more uniform cracks?
3. Textured rock performance (15%) - How well does it adapt to rock with crystals or texture?
4. Ease of cleaning (15%) - How easily can the nut be removed after placement?
5. Durability (15%) - How well does the nut withstand repeated use and falls?
6. Versatility in other orientations (10%) - Can the nut be placed effectively in alternative positions?

After testing extensively over a full climbing season, I've identified the 7 best climbing nuts that offer reliable protection across a range of scenarios. Each review below includes my personal experiences placing these nuts in real-world climbing situations.

1. DMM Alloy Offset - Best Overall Climbing Nut

After extensive testing across various rock types, the DMM Alloy Offset earns my top recommendation as the best overall climbing nut. These nuts excel where other protection often fails—in flared cracks, pin scars, and irregular features that are common in popular climbing destinations like Yosemite and Eldorado Canyon.

The magic of the DMM Alloy Offset lies in its asymmetrical design. Unlike traditional nuts with uniform tapers, these feature one side that's wider than the other, allowing them to seat securely in cracks that widen or narrow. I've placed these in seemingly marginal placements that ended up being absolutely bomber when weighted.

Performance in Different Crack Types

During a recent climb on Thin Air at Cathedral Ledge, I encountered a tricky section with an awkward flare. I placed a #9 DMM Alloy Offset that seated so perfectly I almost couldn't clean it later—exactly the kind of confidence you want when you're run out above questionable gear.

While these nuts shine in irregular cracks, they're less impressive in perfectly parallel cracks. However, this limitation becomes irrelevant when you consider modern climbing strategy. Today's climbers typically carry more cams than nuts and tend to place cams in uniform cracks anyway. The real value of nuts like the DMM Alloy Offset is in protecting those spots where cams simply don't work.

The grooved sides of these nuts also perform admirably in textured granite or coarse sandstone, where the cut-outs accommodate larger crystals without compromising stability.

The DMM Alloy Offset set includes sizes 7-11, which covers medium to large nuts. For a complete rack, you'll want to pair these with smaller nuts like the DMM Peenuts (reviewed below). At around $80 for the set, they're not cheap, but the security they provide in challenging placements is worth every penny.

2. DMM Peenut - Best for Small Nuts

The DMM Peenuts have become my go-to small nuts, earning a permanent spot on my rack for everything from single-pitch trad routes to multi-pitch adventures. Despite their limited size range (covering only sizes 1-5), these nuts see more action than almost any other protection I carry.

Like their bigger siblings, the DMM Alloy Offsets, these feature an asymmetrical design that excels in flaring cracks and pin scars. The key difference is their size—these smaller nuts protect thin cracks where larger options simply won't fit.

Small But Mighty Protection

During a spring climb at Seneca Rocks, I encountered a delicate face traverse protected only by a thin seam. The #3 Peenut slotted in perfectly, giving me the confidence to make the exposed moves knowing I had reliable protection.

While brass nuts might offer better "bite" in smooth rock, the aluminum construction of the Peenuts makes them significantly more durable. I've seen brass nuts deform after a single hard fall, but the Peenuts maintain their shape through repeated use and falls.

Another advantage over brass options is cable durability. Because the cables aren't swaged into the head like many brass nuts, they resist kinking even after awkward cleaning attempts. This means longer life for your gear and less worry about cable failure.

For climbers building their first trad rack, the DMM Peenuts pair perfectly with the DMM Alloy Offsets to create a comprehensive nut collection. At around $95 for the set, they represent an investment in your safety that will last for years of climbing adventures.

3. DMM HB Brass Offset - Best Micro Nuts

The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts represent specialized protection for specific situations—thin cracks, marginal placements, and serious aid climbing. These aren't everyday pieces for casual trad climbers, but for anyone pushing grades or venturing onto routes with minimal protection options, they're absolutely essential.

What sets these nuts apart is their material—soft brass rather than aluminum. While this makes them less durable, it also provides superior "bite" on the rock, as the metal slightly deforms to match the contours of the placement. For micro placements where holding power is critical, this property can mean the difference between a nut that holds and one that pulls.

Essential for Thin Protection

Last fall, while climbing The Nose on El Capitan, I placed a #3 HB Brass Offset in a thin seam where nothing else would fit. When my partner later took an unexpected fall onto this piece, it held perfectly despite the marginal placement—the brass had conformed to the rock and created an incredibly secure fit.

The "scoped" design of these nuts, with a hollow cut into the side of the head, accommodates rock texture and crystals better than solid-sided alternatives. This feature, combined with their offset shape, makes them particularly effective in the irregular, thin cracks found on many classic aid and trad routes.

One significant drawback is cleaning difficulty. The soft brass can become so well-wedged that removal requires significant effort with a nut tool. The thin cables are also more prone to kinking than those on aluminum nuts, requiring careful handling during cleaning.

At around $180 for the set, the DMM HB Brass Offsets represent a significant investment. However, for climbers frequently encountering thin placements or engaging in aid climbing, they're worth every penny for the security they provide in otherwise unprotectable terrain.

4. CAMP USA Pro Nut - Great for Alpine Climbing

The CAMP USA Pro Nut represents a modern take on the traditional curved nut design, and it's particularly well-suited to alpine climbing where weight, versatility, and ease of use are paramount. After testing these extensively in the Cascades and Tetons, I've come to appreciate their unique advantages in certain climbing scenarios.

What immediately stands out about the Pro Nuts is how remarkably easy they are to clean. The rounded head design allows them to pop free with minimal effort—a feature you'll appreciate when you're pumped at a hanging belay trying to clean gear with numb fingers. This quality alone makes them valuable for alpine routes where efficiency is crucial.

Innovative Design Features

During a spring ascent of Mount Washington's Pinnacle Gully, I relied heavily on CAMP Pro Nuts when ice screws wouldn't penetrate the thin, sun-affected ice. Their curved design created stable three-point contact even in marginal rock cracks alongside the route.

The Pro Nuts feature ribbed faces—subtle grooves that provide additional bite in textured rock. While I was initially skeptical of this feature, I found it does help stability in coarse granite and sandstone. The nuts also offer two effective placement orientations, adding versatility when you're trying to protect awkward cracks.

Where these nuts fall short is in pin scars and heavily flared placements. For these scenarios, offset nuts like the DMM options reviewed above are clearly superior. The Pro Nuts are also somewhat prone to "walking" with rope movement, requiring careful extension with slings on wandering routes.

At around $65 for the set of sizes 1-5, the CAMP Pro Nuts offer excellent value. While not a complete nut collection on their own, they make an outstanding complement to a rack that already includes some offset nuts. For alpine climbers looking to shave weight without sacrificing protection, these nuts deserve serious consideration.

5. Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut - Lightest Option

The Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts stand out in one crucial area—weight savings. For alpine climbers, multi-pitch traditionalists, or anyone counting every gram, these nuts offer reliable protection at a fraction of the weight of competitors. After carrying them on long routes in the High Sierra, I've come to appreciate how those small weight savings add up over a full rack.

What makes these nuts unique is their construction method. Unlike most aluminum nuts, which have cables attached via a swage, the Ultralight Curve Nuts have their cables embedded directly into the head. This eliminates metal and weight but comes with some durability concerns.

Double-Curved Innovation

While climbing the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne Meadows last summer, I placed several Metolius Curve Nuts in the irregular granite cracks. Their double-curved design—featuring curves on both the vertical and horizontal axes—created exceptionally stable placements, even in somewhat unusual cracks.

This double-curve design means the nuts almost always make three-point contact with the rock, regardless of orientation. This translates to more stable placements and less likelihood of the nuts "walking" when the rope moves—a common problem with more traditional nut designs.

The primary drawback is cleaning difficulty. The same features that make these nuts so stable also make them challenging to remove, often requiring precise nut tool work. The embedded cables are also more prone to kinking than traditional designs, though they're still more durable than brass nut cables.

At approximately $170 for the complete set (sizes 1-10), these nuts represent a significant investment but offer competitive pricing for a full range of sizes. For climbers focused on weight savings or those who frequently encounter irregular cracks, the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts provide reliable protection in a lightweight package.

6. Black Diamond Stopper - Classic Design

The Black Diamond Stopper represents climbing tradition—this classic design has protected climbers for decades and remains a staple on countless racks worldwide. After years of use, I still find these nuts to be reliable workhorses for everyday traditional climbing, especially for newer trad climbers building their first rack.

So iconic is the Stopper design that many climbers use the term "stopper" generically for any climbing nut, much like "Kleenex" for tissues. This longevity speaks to the fundamental soundness of the design—a simple, tapered wedge with a curved face that provides secure protection in a variety of cracks.

Time-Tested Reliability

While guiding a client up Whitehorse Ledge in New Hampshire last fall, I relied exclusively on Black Diamond Stoppers to demonstrate nut placements. Their straightforward design made them perfect teaching tools, and their easy cleaning properties meant less time spent struggling with stuck gear.

What stands out about the Stoppers is their durability and ease of use. The clean, simple design makes them easy to place, assess, and clean—critical factors for new trad climbers. They also offer two useful placement orientations, adding versatility when protecting different crack types.

Where the Stoppers fall short is in irregular features like pin scars and flares, where more specialized designs like offset nuts clearly outperform them. They're also more prone to "walking" with rope movement than some newer designs, potentially reducing their reliability without proper sling extensions.

At approximately $145 for the full set (sizes 4-13), the Black Diamond Stoppers offer excellent value, especially considering their durability and wide range of sizes. While I recommend supplementing them with offset nuts for specialized placements, a set of Stoppers serves as a solid foundation for any trad rack.

7. Black Diamond Offset Stopper - Complementary Option

The Black Diamond Offset Stopper serves as an excellent complementary piece to round out your rack of the 7 best climbing nuts. While not quite reaching the performance level of the DMM Alloy Offsets, these nuts offer similar benefits at a more accessible price point, making them worthy of consideration for budget-conscious climbers.

Like their DMM counterparts, the BD Offset Stoppers feature an asymmetrical design that performs well in flared cracks and pin scars—situations where standard nuts often struggle. Their offset shape allows them to seat securely where the crack dimensions change, providing protection in otherwise challenging placements.

Budget-Friendly Alternative

During a recent climb on Snake Dike at Half Dome, I found myself grateful for the #10 BD Offset Stopper when faced with a flaring crack where my cams felt unstable. The nut seated securely and provided reliable protection at a critical point on the route.

The BD Offset Stoppers feature similar side grooves to the DMM Alloy Offsets, though the implementation isn't quite as refined. These grooves help accommodate texture in the rock, but don't perform quite as well in heavily featured stone as the DMM alternatives.

Where these nuts particularly shine is as complementary pieces. When paired with DMM offsets, they help fill out size gaps in your protection options, ensuring you're prepared for whatever the route presents. Many climbers specifically add a red BD Offset (#10) to bridge the gap between their DMM Peenuts and Alloy Offsets.

At around $95 for the set (sizes 7-11), the Black Diamond Offset Stoppers represent good value for specialized protection. While they lack some of the refinements of the DMM offsets, they deliver similar functionality at a more accessible price point, earning their place among the 7 best climbing nuts available today.

Comparison of the 7 Best Climbing Nuts

After extensive testing across various climbing environments, it's clear that each of these nuts has specific strengths that make them valuable additions to your rack. The best choice often depends on your typical climbing area, the types of routes you prefer, and your budget considerations.

For most climbers, I recommend a combination approach—pair the DMM Alloy Offsets with the DMM Peenuts for a comprehensive set that handles most situations effectively. Add specialized options like the DMM HB Brass Offsets only if you regularly encounter routes requiring micro placements.

Budget-conscious climbers might start with a set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which provide reliable protection across a wide range of sizes, and gradually add specialized pieces as they encounter specific needs on different routes.

My Experience with the 7 Best Climbing Nuts

Throughout my climbing career, my relationship with nuts has evolved significantly. When I first started trad climbing in 2010, I carried exclusively Black Diamond Stoppers—the classic design seemed sufficient, and I wasn't yet aware of how specialized protection could improve safety and confidence on more challenging routes.

My perspective changed dramatically during a spring climbing trip to Eldorado Canyon in 2018. On the classic route The Naked Edge, I struggled to protect a section with old pin scars using my standard nuts. A more experienced partner lent me a DMM Alloy Offset, which slotted in perfectly where my Stoppers had failed. That single placement was a revelation—I immediately understood the value of having the right tool for specific features.

Since then, I've systematically tested all the nuts reviewed here across various climbing destinations. During a memorable ascent of Liberty Crack in the Cascades, I discovered the value of the lightweight Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts—after a long approach, every gram saved was appreciated, and their performance in the irregular granite cracks was impressive.

The DMM HB Brass Offsets proved their worth during a challenging aid pitch on Moonlight Buttress in Zion. A critical placement in a shallow seam would have been impossible with aluminum nuts, but the brass offset bit into the sandstone perfectly, providing a secure placement where nothing else would have worked.

Perhaps the most interesting comparison came during a climbing clinic I taught last fall. We set up identical cracks and had students test different nuts side by side. The results were clear—in straight-sided cracks, the Black Diamond Stoppers and CAMP Pro Nuts performed admirably. In flares and irregular features, the DMM offsets clearly outperformed the competition. And in small placements requiring maximum security, the brass options consistently inspired the most confidence.

What Experienced Climbers Say

After years of testing and hundreds of pitches protected by these various nuts, my personal rack now includes a carefully selected combination: DMM Peenuts for small placements, DMM Alloy Offsets for medium to large placements, a few Black Diamond Offset Stoppers to fill specific size gaps, and a set of DMM HB Brass Offsets reserved for routes with critical micro placements. This combination provides comprehensive protection for virtually any crack type I encounter.

Buying Guide: How to Choose the Right Climbing Nuts

With so many options available, selecting the right climbing nuts for your needs can be challenging. Here are the key factors to consider when building or upgrading your rack with the 7 best climbing nuts:

Consider Your Climbing Area

Different climbing areas feature different rock types and crack characteristics, which should heavily influence your nut selection:

• Areas with pin scars (Yosemite Valley, Eldorado Canyon) - Prioritize offset nuts like the DMM Alloy Offsets and Peenuts
• Areas with parallel cracks (Indian Creek, Joshua Tree) - Standard designs like Black Diamond Stoppers work well
• Areas with irregular or featured rock (Squamish, Adirondacks) - Consider nuts with grooved sides like DMM Alloy Offsets or double-curved designs like Metolius Curve Nuts
• Alpine areas (Cascades, Sierra Nevada) - Lightweight options like Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts or easy-cleaning designs like CAMP Pro Nuts

Budget Considerations

Building a complete rack of nuts represents a significant investment. Consider these approaches based on your budget:

• Limited budget - Start with a complete set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which provide good versatility at a reasonable price
• Mid-range budget - Invest in DMM Peenuts for small sizes and Black Diamond Offset Stoppers for larger sizes
• Premium budget - Get the full DMM system: Peenuts for small sizes, Alloy Offsets for medium/large sizes, and HB Brass Offsets for micro placements

Weight Sensitivity

For climbers who are particularly weight-conscious (alpine climbers, those tackling long multi-pitch routes), consider these factors:

• The Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts are the lightest aluminum options
• Carrying a selective rack rather than complete sets can save significant weight
• Focus on sizes you use most frequently for your typical routes
• Consider doubling up on the most commonly used sizes rather than carrying every size

Experience Level

Your climbing experience should influence your nut selection:

• Beginners - Start with Black Diamond Stoppers, which are easiest to place and clean
• Intermediate - Add specialized nuts like DMM Alloy Offsets as you encounter more challenging placements
• Advanced - Develop a personalized rack based on your climbing areas and style, potentially including micro nuts for specific routes

Remember that the 7 best climbing nuts aren't necessarily the ones with the highest price tags or most technical designs—they're the ones that work best for your specific needs, climbing style, and the routes you typically climb. A thoughtfully curated rack will serve you better than simply purchasing the most expensive options available.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

After extensive testing across various climbing environments, it's clear that the 7 best climbing nuts offer specialized protection for different scenarios. Rather than declaring a single "best" option, the ideal approach for most climbers is to build a diverse rack that addresses the specific challenges they regularly encounter.

For those seeking the absolute best all-around performance, the DMM Alloy Offset nuts stand out for their exceptional versatility and reliability in challenging placements. Paired with the DMM Peenuts for smaller sizes, these provide comprehensive protection for most traditional routes.

Budget-conscious climbers will find excellent value in the Black Diamond Stoppers, which deliver reliable performance at a reasonable price point. Adding specialized pieces like the Black Diamond Offset Stoppers can address specific needs without breaking the bank.

For those venturing onto routes with unique protection challenges, specialized options like the DMM HB Brass Offsets for micro placements, Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts for weight savings, or CAMP USA Pro Nuts for ease of cleaning each offer distinct advantages.

Ultimately, the best climbing nuts are those that match your climbing style, preferred routes, and budget. By understanding the strengths and limitations of each design, you can build a rack that provides reliable protection across the diverse challenges of traditional climbing.

Remember that even the best gear requires proper placement technique and judgment. Invest not only in quality equipment but also in developing the skills to use it effectively. With the right combination of tools and knowledge, you'll be well-equipped to safely enjoy the rich experiences that traditional climbing offers.