The 7 Best Climbing Cams (2025): Complete Guide for Trad Climbers

Introduction to Climbing Cams

When it comes to traditional rock climbing, few pieces of gear are as essential as the spring-loaded camming device (SLCD), commonly known as a climbing cam. These ingenious pieces of protection revolutionized the sport when Ray Jardine introduced the first Friends in the late 1970s, allowing climbers to protect parallel-sided cracks that had previously been difficult to secure with passive protection like nuts and hexes.

Climbing cams work on a simple but effective principle: as you pull the trigger, the cam lobes contract, allowing you to insert the device into a crack. When you release the trigger, the spring-loaded lobes expand, creating outward pressure against the rock walls. This pressure increases as force is applied in the direction of an expected fall, making properly placed cams extremely reliable protection points.

Modern climbing cams have evolved significantly from their earliest iterations. Today's market offers a variety of specialized designs optimized for different climbing scenarios—from ultralight options for alpine pursuits to micro-cams for thin seams and specialized designs for aid climbing. When building your trad rack, understanding these differences is crucial to selecting the right tools for your climbing objectives.

In this comprehensive guide to the 7 best climbing cams, I'll walk you through the top options on the market, comparing their strengths, weaknesses, and ideal use cases. As someone who has tested these cams extensively in varied terrain from Yosemite Valley's granite to the sandstone towers of Utah, I'll share practical insights to help you make informed decisions when investing in these critical pieces of safety equipment.

Comparison Chart: The 7 Best Climbing Cams

Now let's dive into detailed reviews of each of the 7 best climbing cams, examining their key features, strengths, and weaknesses to help you decide which ones deserve a place on your rack.

1. Black Diamond Camalot C4: The Gold Standard

The Black Diamond Camalot C4 has become the gold standard in camming devices for good reason. With their most recent update, BD shaved 10% off the weight while maintaining the bombproof construction that has made these cams the backbone of countless climbers' racks for decades.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 3.28 oz (1-inch size)
• Range: 0.54-7.68 inches (sizes #0.3 - #8)
• Sling length: 3.75 inches
• Axle design: Double axle for increased range
• Stem design: Semi-rigid stem provides stability during placement
• Color coding: Industry standard that many other manufacturers follow

What makes the C4s so special is their perfect balance of versatility and reliability. The double-axle design gives each unit an impressive range, meaning you can protect more terrain with fewer cams. The rigid stem makes them easy to place deep in cracks, while the ergonomic thumb loop provides excellent handling and clipping options.

For beginning trad climbers, there's no better choice than starting with a set of C4s. Their color-coding system has become the de facto standard in the industry, making it easier to identify and select the right size quickly—a crucial skill when you're pumped out and searching for protection.

For most climbers building their first trad rack, I recommend starting with BD C4s from sizes #0.5 to #3, which will cover most common crack sizes. You can always expand your collection with specialized cams for particular needs later on.

2. Black Diamond Camalot Z4: Best for Small Placements

When it comes to protecting smaller cracks and thin seams, the Black Diamond Camalot Z4 stands at the top of its class. These innovative small cams combined the best aspects of BD's previous X4 and C3 models, resulting in a versatile and reliable finger-sized protection option.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 2.8 oz (1-inch size)
• Range: 0.29-1.66 inches (sizes #0-#0.75)
• Sling length: 3.75 inches
• Head width: Narrower than C4s for better placement in shallow cracks
• Stem design: Innovative RigidFlex stem technology
• Axle design: Double axle for sizes 0.3 and up, single axle for smallest sizes

The most impressive innovation in the Z4 is the RigidFlex stem technology. When you pull on the trigger to place the cam, the stem becomes rigid, giving you excellent control for precise placements. Once placed, the stem becomes flexible, reducing the tendency to walk and adapting better to the contours of the crack.

I've found the Z4s particularly valuable in granite climbing areas like Yosemite and the Bugaboos, where thin finger cracks and crystal-pocked faces demand small, precise protection options. The smallest Z4s, especially the green #0, are game-changers for protecting routes that were once considered bold or runout.

For climbers who frequently tackle routes with thin cracks, I recommend investing in a full set of Z4s to complement your standard C4 rack. The seamless transition between the two systems (they share the same color coding) makes for an intuitive protection system.

3. Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight: Best for Alpine Climbing

When every ounce counts on long alpine routes or big walls, the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight cams are worth their weight in gold—or rather, worth shaving that weight off your rack. These cams offer the same reliable protection as standard C4s but at an impressive 25% weight reduction.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 2.6 oz (1-inch size)—25% lighter than standard C4s
• Range: 0.61-4.51 inches (sizes #0.4-#4)
• Sling length: 3.75 inches
• Core material: Dyneema instead of cable for weight savings
• Axle design: Double axle for increased range
• Color coding: Matches standard C4 colors for consistency

The weight savings in the Ultralight cams come from several innovative design choices. BD replaced the metal cable in the stem with Dyneema cord, used narrower trigger wires, and shaved material from the cam lobes without compromising strength. The result is a full rack that feels noticeably lighter on your harness—something you'll appreciate after hours of climbing.

During testing in the Bugaboos last summer, I found the weight difference transformative on long routes with extensive crack systems. Our team carried doubles in several sizes without the usual fatigue, allowing us to move faster and more efficiently through sustained terrain.

While the Ultralight cams cost about 20-30% more than standard C4s, I believe they're worth the investment for alpine specialists or climbers who frequently tackle long multi-pitch routes. For everyday cragging or gym-to-crag weekend warriors, the standard C4s offer better durability and value.

4. Totem Cams: Best for Aid Climbing

Totem Cams have achieved almost mythical status among aid climbers and those who frequently climb in areas with unusual crack features. These Spanish-made cams offer unique capabilities that no other cam on our list can match, particularly for marginal placements and pin scars.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 3.35 oz (1-inch size)
• Range: 0.46-2.52 inches
• Sling length: 4.6 inches (longer than most competitors)
• Stem design: Flexible stem with no central element
• Unique feature: Each side can be loaded independently
• Lobe design: Oblong shape for better contact in irregular cracks

What truly sets Totem Cams apart is their unique design that allows for loading just one side of the cam. This revolutionary feature enables them to hold in flared placements, shallow holes, or pin scars where other cams would simply pop out. For aid climbers, this can mean the difference between a bomber placement and sketchy or non-existent protection.

The Black Totem (their smallest size) has reached legendary status for its ability to protect thin seams that no other cam can handle. During testing in Yosemite's aid routes, I found Totems incredibly reliable in irregular cracks and shallow placements where traditional cams would be marginal at best.

While they shine in aid climbing applications, Totems are also excellent for free climbing, especially in areas with irregular or flaring cracks. Their ability to hold securely in placements where other cams might fail can provide tremendous peace of mind on challenging trad routes.

5. Wild Country Friends: Best All-Around Alternative

Wild Country Friends hold a special place in climbing history as descendants of the original Friends, the first commercially successful spring-loaded camming devices. The modern iteration combines this rich heritage with contemporary innovations, making them an excellent alternative to BD Camalots for your primary rack.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 3.1 oz (1-inch size)
• Range: 0.81-4.41 inches
• Sling length: 4-7 inches (extendable)
• Axle design: Double axle for increased range
• Color coding: Follows industry standard similar to BD
• Key feature: Extendable Dyneema sling

One of the standout features of Friends is their extendable sling system, which can significantly reduce rope drag on wandering pitches. When fully extended, the sling effectively functions like a quickdraw, eliminating the need to carry as many dedicated alpine draws. This small but significant feature can streamline your rack and make placements more efficient.

In terms of overall design, Friends hit a sweet spot between the rigid stem of BD cams and more flexible options. This balance makes them versatile across various crack types, including horizontal placements where they perform better than standard C4s. During my testing in the sandstone of Red Rock Canyon, I found Friends particularly capable in horizontal breaks and pods.

For climbers looking for a solid alternative to Black Diamond cams, Wild Country Friends offer comparable quality with some unique advantages. They're particularly well-suited to routes with significant horizontal features or those that wander enough to create problematic rope drag.

6. DMM Dragon Cams: Best for Durability

DMM has built a reputation for exceptional build quality across their entire product line, and the Dragon Cams continue this tradition. These beautifully crafted cams feature some unique design elements that make them especially durable and suitable for certain climbing styles.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 3.63 oz (1-inch size)
• Range: 0.51-4.48 inches
• Sling length: 5-9 inches (extendable)
• Axle design: Double axle for increased range
• Stem design: Hot-forged lobes with TripleGrip cam surface
• Unique feature: Extendable sling with robust bar tack

DMM Dragon Cams stand out for their exceptional build quality and attention to detail. The hot-forged cam lobes feature DMM's TripleGrip technology—a textured surface pattern that provides additional holding power, especially in soft rock like sandstone. This makes them particularly valuable in areas like Indian Creek, Utah, or the sandstone formations of the UK.

Like Wild Country Friends, Dragons feature an extendable sling that helps reduce rope drag on wandering routes. However, DMM's implementation includes a more robust bar tack design that's less prone to catching during extension. During my testing in the granite of the Lake District, I found this system to work flawlessly even when I was pumped and making hurried placements.

One design choice that differentiates Dragons from many other cams is the lack of a traditional thumb loop. Instead, DMM uses an ergonomic thumb press that some climbers find more comfortable but lacks the option for high clipping during aid climbing. This makes Dragons primarily oriented toward free climbing rather than aid climbing applications.

7. Metolius Ultralight Master Cams: Best Budget Option

For climbers on a budget who still want quality protection, Metolius Ultralight Master Cams represent the best value in trad climbing gear. These American-made cams pack impressive performance into a lightweight, affordable package.

Key Features and Specifications

• Weight: 2.3 oz (1-inch size)—lightest in our comparison
• Range: 0.34-2.81 inches
• Sling length: 3.75 inches
• Axle design: Single axle (less range than double axle designs)
• Unique feature: RangeFinder color-coded system for placement guidance
• Stem design: Flexible U-shaped stem without thumb loop

The standout characteristic of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams is their impressive weight-to-performance ratio at a price point significantly lower than competitors. These are the lightest cams in our comparison, even beating the purpose-built BD Camalot Ultralights while costing substantially less.

For newer trad climbers, Metolius has incorporated their RangeFinder system—color-coded indicators that help you gauge whether your placement is within the optimal range for the cam. This educational feature can accelerate the learning curve for proper cam placement, building confidence and safety awareness.

The lack of a thumb loop is the most significant compromise in the Master Cam design. While this helps achieve the ultralight weight, it does make them somewhat more challenging to place when you're pumped. They're also not ideal for aid climbing, where the ability to clip directly to a thumb loop can be valuable.

During testing in Red Rock Canyon, I found the Master Cams performed admirably in finger-sized cracks, with their flexible stems adapting well to horizontal placements and awkward pod features. For climbers on a budget or those building a supplementary rack of smaller sizes, these cams offer tremendous value.

How to Choose the Right Cams for Your Rack

With seven excellent options to choose from, how do you decide which climbing cams deserve a place on your rack? Here are the key factors to consider when making your selection:

Consider Your Climbing Style and Objectives

Different climbing disciplines have different protection needs. Here's a quick breakdown:

• All-around traditional climbing: Black Diamond C4s or Wild Country Friends offer versatility and reliability for most scenarios.
• Alpine climbing: Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots or Metolius Master Cams minimize weight for long approaches and routes.
• Aid climbing: Totem Cams excel in marginal placements, while Black Diamond Z4s offer excellent options for small cracks.
• Desert climbing: DMM Dragons with their TripleGrip technology perform exceptionally well in soft sandstone.

Budget Considerations

Building a complete trad rack represents a significant investment. If budget is a primary concern:

• Start with Metolius Master Cams for the best value-to-performance ratio
• Consider building a mixed rack with standard C4s in the most commonly used sizes (typically 0.5-2) and more affordable options in other sizes
• Remember that used cams from reputable sources can be a good option if you know what to look for (no significant wear, smooth trigger action, intact slings)

Local Rock Type and Common Features

The geological characteristics of your local climbing areas should influence your cam selection:

• Granite areas (Yosemite, Squamish): BD Z4s excel in thin granite cracks and pin scars
• Sandstone areas (Indian Creek, Red Rock): DMM Dragons or standard C4s in multiple sizes to protect parallel cracks
• Limestone areas: Totem Cams and flexible-stemmed options perform well in pockets and irregular features

Building Your First Rack

If you're just starting with trad climbing, here's a suggested approach to building your rack:

1. Start with a set of BD Camalot C4s from sizes #0.5 to #3, which will protect most common crack sizes
2. Add a set of nuts for passive protection (essential complement to cams)
3. Expand your collection with smaller cams (BD Z4s or Metolius Master Cams) for finger-sized cracks
4. Consider specialized cams like Totems for specific features or climbing objectives
5. Eventually double up on the most commonly used sizes for your local areas

Remember that most trad climbers eventually build a mixed rack from various manufacturers, taking advantage of each brand's strengths for different applications. There's no one perfect cam that excels in every situation!

My Experience: Testing Cams in Various Terrains

Over the past decade, I've had the privilege of testing these seven cam models in diverse climbing destinations across North America. Here are some personal insights from my experience that might help you in your decision-making process:

Yosemite Valley Granite

Last spring, I spent three weeks in Yosemite, focusing on classic multi-pitch routes like Serenity Crack, The Rostrum, and East Buttress of El Capitan. In Yosemite's parallel-sided granite cracks, the Black Diamond C4s performed predictably well, especially in hand and fist sizes. However, the real revelation was how the Z4s handled the infamous "thin hands" size that can be so challenging to protect. Their narrow heads slid into shallow placements where larger-headed cams wouldn't fit.

For pin scars and flaring cracks common on Valley test-pieces, the Totem Cams were absolutely game-changing. On one particularly runout section of Separate Reality, I found a bomber Totem placement in a flaring crack where nothing else would have worked. That single placement gave me the confidence to push through the crux sequence knowing I had solid protection.

Indian Creek Splitters

Indian Creek's famous sandstone splitters demand a specialized approach to racking. During a two-week trip last fall, I found myself carrying 5-6 cams of the same size for many routes, making weight a significant consideration. This is where the BD Ultralight Camalots shined—carrying multiple #1s and #2s was noticeably less fatiguing compared to standard C4s.

The DMM Dragons performed exceptionally well in softer sandstone thanks to their TripleGrip cam surface. On several occasions, I watched friends' standard cams shift slightly under body weight while testing placements, while the Dragons remained locked in place. For desert splitters, they're worth the extra weight.

Alpine Adventures in the Bugaboos

Alpine climbing demands lightweight efficiency, as I was reminded during a challenging week in the Bugaboos last summer. On the classic Beckey-Chouinard route, every ounce matters during the long approach and 2,000 feet of climbing. My partner and I split a rack of Ultralight Camalots and Metolius Master Cams—the two lightest options in our comparison.

The weight savings was significant, but I also appreciated how both cam models performed in the variable granite found in the Bugaboos. The flexible stems adapted well to changing crack features, and neither showed any tendency to walk during the sustained pitches. One minor issue: the lack of thumb loops on the Master Cams made them slightly more challenging to place quickly during some exposed, strenuous sections.

Winter Aid Climbing in Zion

During a winter aid climbing project in Zion National Park, I got to experience firsthand why Totem Cams have achieved cult status among aid climbers. The sandstone features in Zion include numerous shallow pods, pin scars, and flaring cracks that can be nightmarish to protect. The ability to load just one side of a Totem Cam transformed marginal placements into confidence-inspiring protection points.

For the smallest placements, I found the Black Diamond Z4s in their smallest sizes to be indispensable. Their narrow heads and flexible-yet-rigid stems allowed for precise placements in shallow features where even Alien-style cams wouldn't fit securely.

Based on these experiences across varied terrain, I've developed my own approach to building the perfect rack: C4s form the backbone in the most common sizes, supplemented with specialized tools for specific scenarios—Z4s for small placements, Totems for aid sections and flaring cracks, and Ultralights for alpine adventures when weight is critical.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many cams do I need to start trad climbing?

For beginners, I recommend starting with a "standard rack" that includes a single set of cams covering the range from finger to hand sizes (typically BD C4 sizes #0.5 to #3), complemented by a full set of nuts. This will allow you to protect most moderate routes while learning the fundamentals of traditional climbing. As you gain experience and venture onto more demanding terrain, you can expand your collection with smaller cams, larger cams, and eventually duplicate sizes for parallel cracks or longer routes.

How long do climbing cams last?

With proper care and inspection, most climbing cams can last 5-10 years of regular use. Manufacturers like Black Diamond officially recommend retiring their standard cams after 10 years, while the Ultralight Camalots with Dyneema components have a shorter recommended lifespan of 5 years. The actual lifespan depends greatly on usage patterns, storage conditions, and exposure to elements. Always inspect your cams before each climbing season, looking for worn cables, frayed slings, sticky triggers, or deformed lobes, and retire them when signs of significant wear appear.

Can I mix different brands of cams on my rack?

Absolutely! Most experienced trad climbers develop mixed racks that leverage the strengths of different cam models. For example, you might use BD C4s as your primary cams in medium to large sizes, Z4s or Metolius Master Cams for small sizes, and Totem Cams for specific challenging placements. The only potential complication is learning different color schemes, but this becomes second nature with experience. The benefits of having the right tool for specific placements far outweigh the minor inconvenience of learning multiple color systems.

Should I get offset cams for my rack?

Offset cams—which feature asymmetrical lobe sizes—are specialized tools designed primarily for pin scars in areas with extensive aid climbing history (like Yosemite) or irregular rock features. For most beginning and intermediate trad climbers, standard symmetrical cams are more versatile and should form the foundation of your rack. Consider adding offset cams only after you've built a complete standard rack and have encountered specific routes or areas where they would be advantageous.

What's the difference between single and double axle cams?

Double axle cams (like BD Camalots) feature two parallel axle pins that allow the cam lobes to retract further, providing a greater range per unit—typically about 30% more than single axle designs. This means each cam can protect a wider range of crack sizes, potentially allowing you to carry fewer total units. Single axle cams (like Metolius Master Cams) are typically lighter and can have narrower heads for tight placements, but with a more limited range per unit. Both designs are proven and reliable when placed correctly.

Conclusion

After extensive testing across various climbing disciplines and terrain types, it's clear that each of the 7 best climbing cams offers unique advantages for specific applications. Your ideal rack will likely include a thoughtful combination of different models tailored to your climbing style, local rock features, and budget considerations.

For those building their first trad rack, the Black Diamond Camalot C4s remain the gold standard for reliability and versatility. Their widespread adoption means you'll find compatible sizes and familiar color coding at climbing areas worldwide. For alpine specialists or those counting every gram, the BD Ultralight Camalots or lightweight Metolius Master Cams offer significant weight savings that can make a meaningful difference on long routes.

Specialists like Totem Cams have earned their devoted following through exceptional performance in challenging scenarios like aid climbing and flared placements. Meanwhile, innovations like the extendable slings on Wild Country Friends and DMM Dragons add versatility to traditional designs, potentially streamlining your rack for certain routes.

Remember that building your rack is a journey—start with the essentials that cover the broadest range of placements, then gradually add specialized tools as your climbing evolves and you encounter new challenges. Regular practice with placement and removal in controlled settings will build the confidence and efficiency needed for successful traditional climbing adventures.

Regardless of which cams you choose, proper placement technique and regular gear inspection remain the foundations of safety in traditional climbing. Even the 7 best climbing cams are only as good as the climber using them, so invest time in developing your skills alongside building your rack.

For more climbing gear recommendations and outdoor adventure guides, visit NatureGuests.com, where we explore everything from the best climbing cams to waterproof hiking pants for snow. Whether you're interested in US National Parks scratch-off posters to commemorate your adventures or need a Yellowstone National Park t-shirt as a souvenir, we've got you covered. We also feature guides on the best running shoes for flat feet to keep you moving comfortably on and off the trail.

Safe climbing, and may your protection always hold!